XXIX Chartres (Autricum)                                         

What3words –   advances.lays.smiled  

Visited June 2024 

Construction date – 1st/2nd Century AD 

Capacity – Unknown 

Status – Scant visible evidence but wall foundations, topography and street layout demonstrate its existence.

Chartres is dominated, and I mean dominated, by its vast gothic cathedral. It is, for want of a better expression, absolutely bloody massive and can be seen from miles away across the surrounding fields. The complex of mediaeval clerical buildings and churches which grew up around this important religious centre seem to tumble from the bluff on which it stands, down towards the twin channels of the river Eure to the east. At the bottom of the slope beside the river lies the collegiate church of St André de Chartres, and surrounding it and cutting into the hillside is a suspiciously circular street pattern.

 

Chartres is on the site of the Roman settlement of Autricum. There was 19th century speculation about the existence of an amphitheatre but no concrete evidence until aerial photography pinpointed the location in 1965. Remains were found by archaeological Excavations carried out in 1965, 1967, 1982 and 2010. These uncovered masonry confirming the existence of the structure. 

Dating hypotheses range from the first century to the second century or later.

The visible fragments consist of wall foundations in the passage opening onto the river which passes between the church of St Andre and an apartment block to the north. Their curvature suggest an almost circular structure about 115m in diameter. Little else is known about its architecture. 

A lovely place to visit but the amphitheatre won’t take up much of your time.

n.b. I had intended to make reference to Green Chartreuse and its role in the world of cocktails, inter-war decadence, P.G. Wodehouse, Evelyn Waugh etc. Unfortunately it has no connection with Chartres and is in fact made by Carthusian Monks in the French Alps near Grenoble